¨Have you ever taken a river cruise on the Seine?¨
¨Nope, never.¨
¨Are you free this afternoon, this evening, tomorrow afternoon, or tomorrow evening?¨
¨I have to babysit tonight, and then I'm working a kiddo birthday party all Sunday. So Sunday evening. Probably won't be off until about 20h30.¨
¨That's fine, the last cruise is at 22h30.¨
And so, as I predicted, I was released from nannying at around 20h30, dashed home, changed, ate because I hadn't eaten all day, and hopped onto the metro to meet E at Bir Hakeim to walk down to the Bateaux Parisiens. Did I mention it is nearly May and still effing cold out at night? In the forties. I was a popsicle.
I've also deliberately avoided doing most touristy things here, mostly because I do not have the time, but also because my inner ounce of snob feels like it is ever so slightly beneath her. And the gimmicks annoy the hell out of me. For instance, the second E and I set foot on the damn bateau, a corny photographer insisted on taking our photo so that, for the sake of capitalism, we had the option of purchasing it afterwards. Ugh.
That aside, we sat ourselves down on the bateau at 22h30 when it also unsettingly occured to me that most people on the boat at this time were male-female couples in a clearly romantic context. This wouldn't be so unsettingly to me if I knew what we were.
The best thing I have to describe E and I is that he is my ¨non-boyfriend.¨ In other words, the friend I'll go on ¨dates¨ with and with whom there will always be a certain amount of sexual tension and flirtation, but whom I would never date and whom I do not want to date....though sometimes with him I wonder. Occasionally he does things that make me thing he wants to be more. Like call me and invite me out of the blue to go on a bateau when he could be asking anyone else on the planet. And other times I think this is loneliness.
I was pondering this when the boat took off.
* * *
Paris by night is pure magic, the kind of mise en scène that makes foreigners dream. When the bateau left the port the Eiffel Tower was illuminated in a rich gold light beneath a round moon smiling behind it, a mere two hundred meters from the dock on the Seine.
Nights like these remind me why I love this city, this country. The flittering reflection of the bridges on the water as we passed under the Pont Alexandre III, the way from the river below the buildings I felt like I was in a Disneyland theme park ride. There is nothing but beauty and awe. Add to this my ever growing personal connection to this city; when we passed, for example, the Académie Française, I gleefully pointed out to E that I'd spent much of last year in the library there. I smiled to myself when we passed by the pont de la Tournelle and the Ile Saint Louis thinking how, just a few afternoons prior, I'd walked across to enjoy Berthillon sorbet with a friend. This city is no longer an impersonal, cold mass of stones and imposing statues: I can map a personal geography upon it, recall memories. I no longer need a metro map to navigate the network of lines to go from point A to B. This city is no longer foreign in the way this country is no longer foreign and in the way I am slowly no shedding all about me that is ¨foreign¨ to France...I am assimilating.
And on nights like these I take sheer and utter joy in that. In others, I tremble under the fear and terror of what it might be like to be torn from this piece of me.
* * *
In a skype conversation a few weeks ago, my brother asked when I was coming back to the US of A for good.
¨I don't know, maybe never.¨ All I can say right now are maybes.
¨You know you're not French, right?¨ he blurt out. ¨You're American. An American who belongs in AMURICA.¨ He was half joking and half concerned in that loving, I-miss-you-you -are-really-far-from-family-I-love-you-please-come-home sort of way.
But it got me thinking.
Oh really? I'm not French?
Am I or am I not?
Because honest to God somedays I truly feel like I am.
* * *
I heard from the FWB again. I wanted to know how his move went. He's nice and settled in a beautiful area of France even further South from his village, so he'll be tanning nicely this summer. He's in charge of sales and export for a property down there and I am convinced he'll do well.
We're on good terms and friendly, which is how I like to keep it. Who the hell knows?
It is hard not to miss him, but I've been keeping myself busy, and for the time being, I have bigger fish to fry.
Especially this one called ¨what the hell am i doing with my life i need to figure this out and OH SWEET BABY JESUS DO NOT RIP ME FROM THIS COUNTRY.¨
Nights like the one I had last night remind me not to give up, to dig in. But I'm going to have to fight for it, especially since I was officially just turned down for job with a visa. Now I'm backpedaling and on to Plan B.
I'm also doing everything I can not to get all déprimée but instead to get fired up and angry and fight even harder.
It's not going to be easy. Then again, I never do like to do easy things.
But nights like these, beautiful clear spring nights, remind me that I should never believe I do not deserve what I want, if I am willing to work for it.
Here we go.